Passap E 6000

Learning how to use the DM 80 and the e6000. The DM 80 is the manual version and the e6000 is the electronic version of the knitting machine. You can use the e6000 to knit any DM80 patterns by not using the electronic console. The DM80 manuals did not come with an e6000. You can get a free download of the DM 80 manuals at http://www.passape6000.com/passap-model-books/ Start on page 18, which is the first test piece. In the manual they call it an oven mitt but we’re not going to use a strong enough thread so we will call it a dust mitt. You will be learning some basic stitches that do not use pushers. Set the e6 console out of the way. Every stitch and everything you do is identical on both the DM80 and the a6000. Use a 2/24 acrylic at 3 and 3/4 stitch size on both beds. You will stay at that stitch size throughout until you get ready to cast off.

Start with the cast on first. Push down the lever for eyelet one to pick that empty eyelet up and bring it across to the opening between the beds. Use the double eye bodkin to thread the machine. Put yarn on the floor behind your machine. Put yarn in one eye and bring it up through the guide into the tensioner. Do not put it in the wand right now, continue through the next guide and into the eyelet. Reach under the bed and take the eyelet out, unthread and fasten on the side or under the machine. Return eyelet 1 to the color changer and push down the second lever under eyelet 2 to thread the second eyelet. Follow the directions for eyelet 1. Put the yarn behind thread color 1. If you put this in front of color 1 it would tangle up. If you are using eyelet 3 be sure the yarn is behind color 1 and 2. Then for eyelet 4 be sure the yarn is behind the eyelets 1-2 and 3.

bring this tensioner right now I have this one set on it three it’s going to be a little tight as you can see but this machine is gotten older so it so it’s going to let loose a lot more in a few minutes so even though we want to buy the hands hens fat I’m going to go ahead and leave that one the way it is and it’s about two and a half and over here I’m at two and a half again so I’m going to pop that see now that’s a little too much bring that through again and try it again okay so I want that a little bit tighter so I got this one on the three want to bring it there we go see that that Hansford and as you see this one has let loose more and more now that we are threaded up we are ready to sit down and start knitting okay the first thing we’re going to do is set up our machine and do our racking cast on now this is portion a which is simple knitting it on both beds on both machines it’s going to be in N and Iraq and cast on everything is going to be identical for both machines I did this in contrast so that you could see the cast stone now the first thing we’re going to do is make sure we have 22 needles on both threads and working position so you want 11 stitches to the left and 11 stitches or needles to the right and then you have your matching you can put this up into the knot at 12 o’clock position and have the needles meet head to head and make sure that you got matching needles now we’re going to put this back into the six o’clock position now what we’re going to do is we’re going to get ready to do our racking cast on so we want it on stitch size three and three quarters on both beds the lever on in and in we’re going to rack to handle one full turn to the left and we are going to knit in one row now we have a zigzag roll across now I’m going to use cast on my cast on pounds because I personally like the cast on cones you’ll you’ll hear that some people like them some don’t I’m in the category of liking them I give myself a visual so that I can make sure I team this comb up because this isn’t a very dark mark come and bring my cast on comb and I’m going to stitch my this needle now will put my visual down because I do not want to knit that needle and I’m going to put in my wire and I’m going to hang one wait in the center now if you notice that my locks do not have strippers in them that’s because if I bring this across these that’s wire it which it would hurt the stripper so we don’t put our strippers in yet so we’re going to wrap one full turn back to the right and knit one row and our cast stone is complete now we can put in our orange strippers because we’re doing double bed and orange is for dolvett’s double bed knitting now we’re going to go into pattern a which is NN still we’re still using the same stitch size 3 and 3/4 we’re going to put the row counter on 0 we’re still in color 1 so we’re fine the lock is on the right and now we are going to knit 30 rows and color1 but before we do that we do want to put our H bring zone so I’m closing my latches and putting on the edge springs now you do want your latch hook hooks closed so that if you were to catch them on the edge spring you could break your needle and your edge ngwe all got color too here and now we’re going to knit a tea rose now I want you to see that when you’re when you’re doing this it is knitting and holding on both bitch the back bed has knitted off and the front bed is holding and when you knit it this way the back bed is holding a stitch and the front bed is knitting so when you go one way you’re knitting one roll the one bed off and you’re holding the other one so that’s what creates the fisherman rib

Here is the cast off that I use most of the time. How loose my knitting is will depend on how much I increase my back bed stitches. Change the front lock by moving the lever over to N. For 2/24 acrylic (which is great to practice with), leave stitch size on 3 and 3/4. For the back bed move up the stitch size 3/4 of a stitch size. To do that go 1 2 3 clicks which puts it at 4 and 1/2 for the stitch size.

You will get the feel for your yarn with experience and practice. Knitting a sample first to try the different size of the castoffs is always a good plan. You can get the gauge you like plus the castoff that works best for your project.

Knit one row from right to left to get your set up row. Move up the back stitch size up other 3/4 of a stitch. To do that go 1 2 3 clicks which puts your stitch size on 5 and 1/4 for the back bed. Put the racking handle up into the 12 o’clock position. That makes it easier to transfer the stitches over from the back bed to the front bed.

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Make sure that all of the back bed needles are in working position because you are going to use them again. Next put the racking handle back into the six o’clock position. Set both locks to N-N.

When you look at the needle bed you have single bed knitting. You will knit back left to right to produce double bed knitting for the next step of the cast off. To prepare for going from single bed knitting to double bed knitting, use a black stripper on the front lock. Knit one row. That completes our cast off as far as knitting.

Pull out enough yarn to start the cast off process. You will NOT be knitting on the back bed so make sure all pushers are out of work because a B X will give you a free motion, where G X if you accidentally have a needle up can break your needle. Release the beds so they open up. Hold you hand under the front bed as you bring it down so it does not drop. Take the weights off.

Your cast off looks like a chain stitch after you get through casting off and it makes a very nice cast off which looks like the cast on edge. You can change the increase of your back bed stitch size to give you a bigger loop if you need a nice stretchy cast off or you can have a very tight cast off. This lesson did 3 and 3/4 on the front and a total of 1 and 1/2 increases between the two rows that were knit. It gives you a very nice cast off finish.

Hi everyone my name is Marjorie J McDonald I’m a knit wear designer and have been asked repeatedly to create teaching tutorials for how to create some of the garments that I have available for my customers, clients and stores that I sell to.

The garment that I am wearing is a jacket that I created on the Passap e6000. It’s made out of 224 acrylic.

I didn’t care much for acrylic either when I first started, but it’s marvelous yarn, knits easily and is easy to care for. You may want to reconsider using it in the items that you are going to be doing.

Join me for this series of video tutorials and learn how to get from the yarn to a finished product. On either side of me you will see a pink and a blue foam board. Those are used for blocking, Yes, we do need to block our pieces as we are finished with knitting them before you begin the construction process.

What I’d like for you to do is find those at your local home improvement store. On the blue board, you’ll see a white square. That white square is interfacing that you can purchase at your local fabric store. It is just a lightweight non fusible interfacing. Be sure it’s not fusible. I’m going to show you how to create patterns out of that interfacing.

We’re going to use the yarn that we have knit. We’re going to place it onto the template that I’m going to teach you how to create for your garment and we’re going to block it before we start the construction of your final garment. Those items you will need to scout up if you’re going to join me for the series of video tutorials which I hope you will.

http://www.knittingtofit.com

The Passap E 6000 electronic knitting machine is one of the most versatile knitting machines available. It has quite a high learning curve because of the way the manuals were written and the options for finding information about how to use the machines are limited.

I am a knitwear designer, use the knitting machine and have been asked to create video tutorials for how to start, use the machine with ease and get finished items off the machine and in use. I lean more toward clothing because I am a clothing designer but, you can use the information for other types of items as well.

The tutorials are design information, tips that will help you create the design and things that could be a problem if you were not aware of them.These are items I designed and sold to stores and have found to be easy to do and give great results for you to have immediate success with your knitting as well as increase your confidence.

If you want the exact instructions for the design or stitch pattern/technique to make the design, patterns are available for a $10.00 per garment fee. Contact me and I will make arrangements to send you a pdf of the step by step process.

The garments are for your personal use only. If you want to make them and sell them, you must contact me for permission.

For those who are new to the machine, have some experience but are having difficulty getting finished projects off of the machine or have the machine but haven’t used it for awhile and need a refresher, I have started a members site.

You will get a content post for the first 3 weeks of the month about a subject-project and a video/webinar on week 4 to walk you through the content posts, add additional information and the steps to complete the project so you can see the process. The member information is Here

Many people are trying to use the machine without learning how and could potentially damage their machines so the basics are important to know and review. I have been using this machine for 22+ years and I review every year. What that has done for me is keep the function of the machine and how it performs fresh so I am able to use the machine with ease. In the process, I discover things I never have seen before, and remember things that I forgot that would help me in the knitting setup, knitting and finishing if I did them again.

If you have a machine and are intimidated by it, the members site could help you get over that. Consider joining. Here